Maine’s breathtaking coastline is unlike any other. It’s only about 280 miles from the New Hampshire border to the New Brunswick, Canada, border if you follow the region’s principal road, U.S. Route 1 (along with state Route 189 for the final stretch).
However, this jagged shoreline is anything but a straight shot. And if you measure the tide coastline — which includes every peninsula, inlet, island and tidal basin — the Maine coast actually measures 3,478 miles, making it the fourth-longest in the country (it slightly exceeds California’s).
You could drive it sticking closely to U.S. 1 in about seven or eight hours, but you wouldn’t actually see much of the ocean. For views of Maine’s azure waters — its rocky headlands dotted with imposing historic lighthouses, its sheltered harbors aglow with sleek sailboats and colorful lobster buoys — you’ll want to detour frequently from the main route. To fully experience this breathtaking maritime landscape immortalized in the paintings of Winslow Homer, Marsden Hartley, Andrew Wyeth and countless other luminaries, spend at least a few days (or ideally a couple of weeks) tracing the coast’s many contours.
The beautiful Portland Head Light, a historic lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth, Maine, was completed in 1791 and is the oldest lighthouse in the state. BKAMPRATH/GETTY IMAGES
As you traverse the coast in a northeasterly direction, heading “down east” as it’s known in Maine vernacular, you’ll encounter far fewer people and much less commercial development. The relatively direct stretch from the New Hampshire border to the state’s largest city, Portland, abounds with sophisticated sea-to-table restaurants and posh country inns as well as charming lobster shacks, enticing ice cream stands and nostalgic minigolf centers. Once you get past Freeport, with its iconic L.L. Bean flagship store, you start to encounter the wilder and more rugged Maine coast, with its long and narrow peninsulas.
Along this part of the coast, you’ll still find pockets of upscale vacationers in affluent summer colonies like Boothbay Harbor, Camden and Bar Harbor, but the pace slows. The final stretch of coast beyond Mount Desert Island to the Canadian border feels completely rural. You’ll encounter few fellow travelers in this sparsely populated but verdant area that depends economically more on commercial fishing and blueberry farming than tourism.
But by exploring the full length of Maine’s gorgeous coast, you’ll find much to appreciate. You can feast on incredible seafood (not just lobster but rock and Jonah crab, oysters, mussels, and myriad fish) and a dizzying variety of craft beers. You’ll discover superb art museums and galleries, and diverse flora and fauna to view on coastal hikes, wildlife-watching cruises and kayaking and biking tours. And, of course, there’s the stunning natural scenery of Acadia National Park.
Here’s your guide to planning the perfect coastal Maine road trip and everything you should see and do along the way.
Maine road trip planning Cars driving on a road in Acadia National Park. ALLARD1/GETTY IMAGES
GPS devices tend to be at cross purposes with actually enjoying a drive up the Maine coast, as they constantly attempt to shunt you onto U.S. Route 1 or, worse, Interstate Highway 95, instead of the happily meandering and circuitous roads that run closer to the shoreline. Unless you’re pressed for time, feel free to ignore the entreaties of your GPS and take the scenic route whenever possible. Detour down to the tips of Maine’s finger-shaped peninsulas, and if there’s an island you can reach by bridge or even by ferry, go for it, at least once. Bailey Island, Deer Isle and Vinalhaven (which entails a ferry ride) are all good bets.
Note that many municipal beaches have steep parking fees for nonresidents, sometimes $25 or more. Day-use fees at state beaches are per person rather than per vehicle and typically cost around $7 or $8 per person. In Portland and some of the more popular small towns along the coast — Bar Harbor, Kennebunkport, Ogunquit — street parking can be hard to come by, especially during the summer high season, so prepare to use a pay lot that may also be expensive.
Gas stations are present all along U.S. Route 1 and in most towns, but they can be harder to find, or a lot more expensive, on the more rural peninsulas and islands. It’s best to top off your tank before venturing anywhere remote.
Set aside enough time A couple kayaking on Jordan Pond in Acadia National Park. JERRY MONKMAN/AURORA PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
If you’re driving this full itinerary from Kittery to the Canadian border, give yourself a minimum of five days and four nights to be able to experience the key sights along the way. This allows you to set aside a full day each for exploring Portland and Acadia National Park, and enough time to drive through all of the towns described in this article. To appreciate this trip at a more leisurely pace, budget a week to 10 days and try to spend two nights in some of the more prominent areas, such as Kittery-Portsmouth, Portland, Rockland-Camden, and Bar Harbor-Acadia National Park. If you have two weeks or even longer, you won’t run out of engaging things to see and do.
Getting to the Maine coast
Boston Logan International Airport (BOS) has by far the greatest number of direct flights in New England, and it’s just a 75-minute drive from the Maine border. Another option is to fly into Maine’s small, user-friendly Portland International Jetport (PWM), which is a 45-minute drive from Kittery. A lesser-known option that’s just a 50-minute drive from Kittery is Manchester-Boston Regional Airport (MHT) in New Hampshire. It’s served by several of the major airlines. Although Logan Airport is likely the easiest to reach from much of the country and many international destinations, it is a busy hub in a city with notorious traffic, and rental car rates tend to be steeper than at the airports in Portland and Manchester, which are also smaller and more pleasant to navigate.
From Boston, Amtrak serves Portland and several smaller towns along the lower Maine coast. And there’s frequent daily bus service on multiple carriers from Logan Airport and downtown Boston to both Portsmouth and Portland.
Best starting and end points on the Maine coast View of a fishing harbor in Kittery, Maine. ALBERTPEGO/GETTY IMAGES
This itinerary follows Maine’s coast in a northeasterly direction, beginning at the town of Kittery, which is just across the Piscataqua River from Portsmouth, New Hampshire. This corner of the state is easy to get to, as it’s just a 75-minute drive up the coast from Boston via I-95, and there are plenty of hotels in the area, both on the New Hampshire and Maine sides of the border. This trip ends at the Canadian border, where you have the option of extending your adventure by continuing into New Brunswick and potentially beyond. Although it can take several days to travel along the coast’s meandering roads, exploring its peninsulas and inlets, the drive back from Lubec to Kittery-Portsmouth takes just under five hours if you take the most direct interior route (state Route 189, U.S. Route 1, state Route 192 and state Route 9 to Bangor, and then I-95 the rest of the way).
The best time to visit the Maine coast WYATT SMITH/THE POINTS GUY
For the best balance of weather and scenery without excessive crowds or super-steep hotel rates, make this trip during the spring and fall shoulder seasons, between May and mid-June or mid-September and mid-November. The exception to this rule is fall’s peak foliage season, which along the Maine coast is generally from around mid-September through the first week of November. Although the coast attracts fewer leaf-peepers than interior New England, crowds do pick up around this time and hotel rates can also spike a bit.
July and August are peak high-season, as are holiday weekends in spring and fall. This is the best time to laze on Maine’s beaches and even swim in the ocean (which is still pretty chilly, with highs averaging around 70 degrees in summer). It’s also when seasonal businesses like lobster shacks, ice cream stands and scenic tour boats have their longest hours. But you’ll pay a premium at coastal hotels during this time (note that the starting rates for hotels recommended in this article are for the summer high season).
Conversely, winter on the Maine coast can be a bargain as long as you don’t mind bundling up, and you’ll sometimes have beaches all to yourself. But many businesses, including lodgings and restaurants, shut down in winter — and in some cases all the way from mid-October through early May, especially the farther up the coast you go.
Kittery to the Kennebunks Kennebunk’s Lower Village and Kennebunkport’s Dock Square are located along the ocean and Kennebunk River. SURA ARK/GETTY IMAGES
More than any other section of Maine’s coast, this relatively short (30-mile) stretch in the state’s southwestern corner is easiest to access from coastal roads, which more or less parallel the shore’s contours, even beyond Kennebunkport and up through Cape Elizabeth and South Portland.
The region is characterized by broad, crescent-shaped, golden beaches and is home to the greatest concentration of tourism-related businesses. You’ll find no shortage of accommodations, from swanky seaside inns to low-frills, family-friendly motels to vacation rentals of every configuration and price range. Although the population swells in summer and traffic can slow to a crawl on weekends, don’t give in to the temptation to skip this region in favor of the quieter areas beyond Portland. It’s a beautiful part of the state with a number of appealing attractions. What you might consider doing, however, is timing your trip so that you’re in this area midweek rather than during the busier weekend.
Kittery and the Yorks
Start your journey by taking U.S. Route 1 over the Memorial Bridge, which crosses the Piscataqua River from historic downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire, to Kittery, Maine’s oldest town. If you want to fuel up early, stop on Badger’s Island, which is right in the middle of the river, for a hearty meal at Ore Nell’s Barbecue or in the historic downtown at Lil’s Cafe, an artisan bakery with great coffee drinks.
Continue east on state Route 103 along the curving riverfront rather than following U.S. Route 1 into the tangle of outlet shops for which Kittery is most famous. Stop to walk around colonial-era Fort McClary State Historic Site, with its formidable granite walls and views of pretty Portsmouth Harbor. The road curves past characteristic colonial homes before joining with U.S. Route 1A, a scenic coastal road that passes through the classic seaside vacation villages of York Harbor, York Beach and Cape Neddick. These towns have a nostalgic family vacation vibe and there are plenty of places to hop out for a stroll along the sand or a bite to eat overlooking the sea.
Just north of York Beach — a stretch of beach cottages and hotels that looks like a postcard from the 1940s — turn right (follow the signs) to the parking area for what’s quite possibly the most photographed building in Maine: Nubble Lighthouse, an elegantly simple white tower beside a red-roofed Victorian keeper’s house set on a small rocky island just offshore. You can’t actually visit the island, but the view from across the water is splendid, and next to the parking lot, Fox’s Lobster House is a good spot to indulge in your first bowl of chowder or lobster roll.
Optional side trip to Portsmouth, New Hampshire The Memorial Bridge over the Piscataqua River connects New Hampshire to Maine. TRAVELVIEW/GETTY IMAGES
The largest community on New Hampshire’s 18-mile shoreline, this upbeat historic city with a population of around 23,000 is both an excellent base for exploring the adjacent southwestern corner of Maine and a delightful destination in its own right.
A compact seaport, Portsmouth is known for its carefully preserved colonial buildings, many of them open to the public. A highlight is Strawbery Banke Museum, a 10-acre living history village of more than three dozen restored structures. Sometimes described as a miniature Portland, this city of narrow tree-shaded lanes and well-tended gardens has a growing restaurant scene and plenty of galleries, crafts shops, bookstores and clothiers to keep you busy.
Ogunquit
Just north of Cape Neddick, where U.S. Route 1A cuts west to join U.S. Route 1, turn right onto Shore Road and follow this narrow, curvy route into charming Ogunquit, which developed into an artists colony and a summer resort in the late 19th century and has in more recent decades become a popular LGBTQIA+ destination. Testament to this cheerful beach town’s creative legacy are the small but excellent Ogunquit Museum of American Art and the acclaimed Ogunquit Playhouse summer theater. Be sure to check out the shops and seafood eateries (such as Footbridge Lobster and Barnacle Billy’s) of Perkins Cove, where there’s also a photogenic footbridge across the town’s boat basin. From here, walk the stunning 1.3-mile Marginal Way footpath along a series of sea cliffs into the cute downtown, where you’ll discover a number of hip bars and restaurants.
Kennebunkport
As you head north on U.S. Route 1 from Ogunquit, turn right onto the state Route 9 shore route into the old-money enclave of Kennebunkport, with its appealing village center bisected by the scenic Kennebunk River. Stroll among Dock Square’s many shops and restaurants, where you can also book a sightseeing cruise on The Pineapple Ketch, a historic 38-foot ship that provides a glimpse of the many imposing summer cottages (mansions, really) that dot the town’s shoreline, including Walker’s Point, aka the Bush compound, which served as the “Summer White House” for President George H.W. Bush. Off Dyke Road a few miles northeast of town, Goose Rocks Beach is one of the area’s gems, offering great opportunities for tidepooling and soaking up rays.
Where to stay CLIFF HOUSE/FACEBOOK
With days of driving ahead, you might consider treating yourself to a night or two in a fabulous spa resort, like Cape Neddick’s sumptuous Cliff House Maine (rates start at $699 per night), which is perched on a dramatic rocky ledge a few miles south of the Ogunquit border. In addition to having a 9,000-square-foot spa overlooking the sea, this contemporary 226-room hotel boasts a championship golf course, several restaurants and myriad recreational activities. From the enchanting Trellis House (rates start at $309 per night), an eight-room bed-and-breakfast surrounded by lush gardens and greenery, you’re steps from Ogunquit’s Marginal Way coastal path and within walking or trolleying distance of the beach and local dining.
The contemporary-chic AWOL Kennebunkport (rates start at $327 per night) offers a distinct contrast to the area’s many old-fashioned inns. A short walk from lively Dock Square in Kennebunkport, it’s made up of 17 airy cabins with low-slung, tasteful furnishings and private patios and balconies. Most rooms have fireplaces, and rates include a breakfast featuring a toast bar with bagels, muffins, breads and gourmet toppings. AWOL is part of the renowned boutique hotel brand Lark Hotels, which has four other Maine properties, including the stunning Kennebunkport Captains Collection (rates start at $471 per night), which is just around the corner and consists of four smartly updated historic homes with plush rooms and suites outfitted with soaking tubs, working fireplaces and plenty of other perks.
Just across the state line in Portsmouth, you’ll find a great selection of both modern full-service hotels and distinctive urban inns. A couple of notables include the Hotel Thaxter (rates start at $369), a new 15-room boutique inn within the heart of the city’s historic downtown, and Wentworth by the Sea (rates start at $389 per night), which is a 10-minute drive outside of town on the beautiful New Castle island. This legendary grande dame was built in 1874 and overlooks a scenic harbor where the Piscataqua River meets the ocean. It offers a spa, two pools, tennis courts and a Scottish-style links golf course.
Greater Portland People kayaking in Casco Bay. 1MICHAEL D. WILSON/AURORA PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES
Maine’s largest city has just under 70,000 residents and is 50 miles up the coast from the New Hampshire border. In addition to being a picturesque port city with an incredible food scene, it’s an excellent place to anchor yourself if you’re planning a longer stay and appreciate having proximity to both the sea and a vibrant arts and cultural scene. From Kennebunkport, state Route 9 leads into the towns that form the metro area’s southern edge, including Biddeford and South Portland.
Biddeford and Cape Elizabeth
From Kennebunkport, follow Route 9 as it curves back inland along the Saco River into Biddeford, a once-thriving textile mill town that underwent a severe downturn during the second half of the 20th century as industry moved elsewhere. By the early 2000s, the city center’s handsome, though largely empty, redbrick mill buildings and storefronts began to attract chefs, brewers, makers, artists and other entrepreneurs, and today Biddeford buzzes with activity.
Stop for breakfast or lunch at acclaimed spots like Catface Cafe and the Palace Diner, or a memorable dinner at Elda. Sample fine spirits, including aromatic small-batch gins, at cozy Round Turn Distilling, and house-roasted coffees and local beer at the inviting bookstore-cum-cafe Elements.
Once you’ve filled up on excellent food and drink, follow U.S. Route 1 over the river into another small industrial city, Saco. Here, you have a decision to make about which route to follow. If you have a soft spot for the thrum of boardwalk amusement parks, fried-dough and saltwater taffy vendors, T-shirt shops and souvenir stands, and other retro-kitschy fun, head east a few miles to Old Orchard Beach, a spirited if at times raucous honky-tonk vacation town with a long pier, a beach that’s jammed on weekends with towels and umbrellas, and fireworks shows on Thursday nights from late July through early September.
If this isn’t your bag, continue up U.S. Route 1 to the bedroom community of Scarborough, and take state routes 207 and 77 through the upscale seaside town of Cape Elizabeth. On this scenic route, you can detour south to Prouts Neck to visit the Winslow Homer Studio (tours are offered only by advance reservation through the Portland Museum of Art), where the artist painted many of his legendary Maine seascapes from the 1880s until his death in 1910. And you can visit the Portland Head Light, which has served as a beacon to ship captains since 1791 and inspired countless paintings, including Edward Hopper’s memorable 1927 work, “Portland Head.” You can walk around this graceful stone tower and tour the museum inside the quaint keeper’s house — walking paths lead along the rock bluffs and throughout surrounding Fort Williams Park. Route 77 continues north across Casco Bay Bridge and into the heart of Portland.
Portland Bud Light Park in South Portland, Maine. CAPPI THOMPSON/GETTY IMAGES
With its walkable streets lined with stellar restaurants, cocktail lounges, fine galleries and fashionable boutiques, Portland is the perfect city to ditch your car for an afternoon, or even a few days, and explore on foot. The exercise will come in handy given how much eating and drinking you’ll be tempted to indulge in. Moreover, there’s a clutch of first-rate hotels downtown.
Great views can be had from the grassy lawns of the Western Promenade and Eastern Promenade, two hilltop parks that bracket the city. The Portland Museum of Art features extensive holdings of painters who have immortalized the region’s natural scenery, including Homer and Hopper but also John Marin, George Bellows and Andrew Wyeth. There’s also an outstanding contemporary collection and terrific rotating exhibits. A few blocks away you can visit the childhood home of poet Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, which now contains the Maine Historical Society. Nearby, the Old Port district exudes old-world charm with its bustling wharves, seafood markets and narrow lanes.
Where to eat and imbibe? Longtime favorites include Fore Street for locally sourced seafood and meats and Duckfat for Belgian-style frites and luscious milkshakes. Along the same block, head to Eventide Oyster Co. for fresh-shucked bivalves and its sister establishment, The Honey Paw, for boldly flavored pan-Asian cooking. Newer chef-driven spots such as locavore-minded Twelve and warmly convivial Thistle & Grouse are turning heads with their inventive, artfully prepared cuisine. And James Beard Award-nominated chefs are well represented in town; consider Krista Cole of Sur Lie (she also runs Gather, just up the road in Yarmouth), Courtney Loreg of Woodford Food & Beverage, Isaul Perez of