Editor’s note: TPG’s Erica Silverstein accepted a free trip from Viking to sail Viking Polaris in Antarctica. The opinions expressed below are entirely hers and weren’t subject to review by the line.
Viking Polaris is the ship that bucket list dreams are made of.
The sturdy, 378-passenger ship in the Viking fleet is rated Polar Class 6, so it can take you to the ends of the Earth, no problem. It’s tricked out with Zodiacs, two submersibles, kayaks and a speed boat, so remote islands and narrow bays won’t keep you from close encounters with wildlife and nature.
Checking off worldwide wish-list destinations like Antarctica, the Arctic and the Great Lakes also comes with style. The ship boasts four onboard restaurants and a breathtaking spa that’s open to all. Cabins are cozy and spacious with seating nooks by floor-to-ceiling windows, large (for a ship) bathrooms with heated floors and thoughtful touches for the perfect adventure, like a drying closet and two sets of binoculars.
Public lounge areas are so inviting, with comfortable seating and light-filled spaces thanks to tons of windows, that you’ll be glad to kick back with a book, a puzzle or a drink after an incredible experience ashore. And the crew members do all they can to make you feel right at home, remembering your name and greeting you warmly whenever they see you.
Viking might be inspired by Nordic sailors of yore, who explored the world in their bare-bones longships — or the rugged 20th-century explorers whose portraits line the walls of the ship — but Viking Polaris’ creature comforts would make all those hardy men and women rethink their travel choices. You won’t regret yours if you choose to make this gorgeous little ship your home base for vacation adventure.
Overview of Viking Polaris
At 30,158 tons, Viking Polaris is small by ocean ship standards. The biggest megaships are eight times larger. But it’s actually the largest vessel in the adventure-focused subset of ocean ships known as expedition ships, and it holds an unusually large number of passengers for such a vessel: 378 spread across 189 cabins and suites.
This means that while you’ll enjoy the intimacy and personalized service of a small ship when you’re on board, not to mention the additional onboard venues the extra space allows, you will need to wait your turn when going ashore in some destinations such as Antarctica, where only 100 people are allowed onshore at each landing site at a time.
In addition, the ship is for adults only; you must be 18 years or older to sail. Not that you should expect a bunch of partying 20-somethings on board. Viking caters to a 55+ crowd, and the majority of its guests are retirees in their 60s and 70s. The cruise line also has a huge fan club. More than half the guests on my Antarctica cruise were repeat passengers who adore Viking’s ocean and river cruises, and you’ll find that to be true on most sailings.
Related: Viking Explorer Society cruise loyalty program: Everything you need to know
Viking positions its expedition vessels between the over-the-top, completely all-inclusive luxury ships that go to off-the-beaten-path places such as Antarctica and the hardier, no-frills classic expedition ships. It focuses on a comfortable onboard environment with accessible adventure options.
The ship is upscale, but not ornate or stuffy, and its public spaces are inviting rather than impressive. Think of the ship as the living room designed by your friend with good taste instead of the formal sitting area where you’re afraid to touch the expensive decorations.
Many amenities are included in the fare — Wi-Fi; all dining, wine and beer with lunch and dinner; a gorgeous thermal suite with a pool and hot and cold therapies; kayak and special operations boat tours; two-layer jackets to keep; and boots and waterproof pants to borrow in polar cruise regions — but you will still need to pay extra for cocktails (either a la carte or with a beverage package), gratuities, spa treatments and submarine rides.
Of the 250-plus crew members on board, 20-plus are expedition staff: scientists, specialists (biologists, geologists, naturalists, etc.), mountain guides and kayak guides. They are on board to scout and set up landing sites, lead kayak tours, conduct science experiments from the ship, spot wildlife, and give lectures about the flora, fauna and geography of the area. They’re generally helpful individuals, happy to answer your questions and take photos of both guests and wildlife to share.
The ship has seven passenger decks, with the lowest, Deck A, the Zodiac and special operations boat loading zone, and the highest, Deck 6, being an open deck. (The highest Deck 7 is off limits except during the weather balloon release party.) The ship is small and it doesn’t take long to get anywhere, though it does take a few days to get the hang of where things are on board and how to get from point A to point B. Unlike on many ocean cruise ships, you might need to walk down passenger corridors to reach certain lounges.
The ship is unusual in that it has an operational science lab on board where the ship’s research scientists collect data to share with its global partners (such as NOAA and the University of Western Australia). In addition to the Zodiacs and kayaks common on expedition ships, Viking Polaris also carries two six-passenger yellow submersibles (playfully named George and Ringo — get it?) and a Special Operations Boat (a 12-seater speed boat with surprisingly comfortable seats and easy boarding).
All these vessels are stored in The Hangar, a water-level storage area that speeds up the deployment time of all the ship’s watercraft. Here, too, the cruise line has created a spacious and comfortable boarding area that functions without gangways and with the latest biosecurity technology, such as a boot washing machine. The setup makes it easier to both get on and off ships and keep Antarctica clean.
Related: The 3 types of Viking ships, explained
What I loved about Viking Polaris The Nordic Spa Nordic Spa on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
You don’t expect a full-blown gorgeous spa when you’re adventuring to Antarctica, but Viking Polaris provides not only a beautiful facility but also one that brings the destination in. Floor-to-ceiling windows in the salon and thermal suite area allow you to watch for whales or seals as you enjoy a pedicure or soak in a hot tub.
Even better, the thermal suite is free for anyone to use, so if you get chilled on a wet kayak ride, you can warm up again in the heated pool or pamper tired muscles with a mix of hot and cold therapies. (If you’ve never dumped a bucket of cold water on your head after 15 minutes in a dry sauna or rubbed snow on your body in a steam room, I highly recommend trying it.)
The two-room fitness center is also larger than I expected for an expedition ship and enabled me to keep up my workout routine every morning.
Big kudos go to the spa staff, who are super sweet and helpful. Igor tailored my personal training session to my specific requirements and body needs, rather than giving me some standard plan. Joksim led a surprisingly intense (for a cruise ship) yoga session and then gave me an incredible massage a few days later, working out every knot from my neck to my feet.
If nothing else, stop by the spa reception desk daily to grab an inspirational quote — almost like a fortune cookie — from the bowl of colored cards. It will set the tone for your day.
Safety protocols Safety briefing on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
I admit I was a tad nervous about the thought of sailing to a place as remote as Antarctica. What if we got stranded ashore during a landing? What if the Zodiac broke down halfway back to the ship?
While any expedition cruise involves a certain degree of risk, the Viking crew members put me at ease with the knowledge that they’ve prepared for every possibility. Two of the expedition guides even led a briefing about the ship’s safety protocols. We learned that the team brings ashore a ton of survival gear at every landing, including tents, thermal blankets, food and water rations, a desalination machine, a satellite phone, crevasse extraction equipment and even a portable toilet. (The latter is only used for true emergencies, so use your cabin bathroom before you head off the ship.)
Zodiac, SOB and submarine drivers are always in radio contact with each other and the ship, and they stay far away from marine animals and icebergs (which could potentially tip over and cause trouble). The crew gives guests clear instructions about how to get in and out of the ship’s boats and someone is always there to give a hand.
All cruise ships in Antarctica follow the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators’ rules for safe and environmentally responsible tourism. Viking Polaris’s crew takes IAATO protocols seriously and works diligently to keep Antarctica pristine.
They sanitize boots going to and from shore, as well as the walking poles they provide, and advise guests against bringing anything unnecessary (snacks, tissues, etc.) to shore so nothing unsanitary ever touches the ground on landings. They even checked and vacuumed all the expedition gear we brought from home, including hats, gloves, goggles and camera bags.
The ship itself is built with all kinds of redundant systems, water-tight doors, and fire-detecting and -fighting equipment. It also carries “ice cubes,” large floating boxes filled with group survival gear for up to five days should the ship have to be abandoned.
It’s unlikely that something will go wrong on your cruise, but it’s comforting to know that the ship and crew are totally prepared for nearly any emergency.
The crew Chef at the World Cafe on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Every cruise line will tell you its crew is the best, but the friendliness and helpfulness of Viking Polaris’ crew are palpable from the moment you step on board. Crew members you never met somehow know your name and say hello every time you pass them on board. My cabin stewards always pop out when we walk down the hallway and ask us about our day. They didn’t even bat an eye when my travel companion and I had to try on five expedition jacket sizes to find the right fit.
The dining staff goes above and beyond; Santosh asked us what food we liked on the first day, and had our Indian chickpea curry waiting for us the very next day. One member of the dining team not only fetched a specific flavor of ice cream from the galley for my friend but brought her a second bowl the following day without being asked. The restaurant manager personally reached out and sent me a plate of desserts the day I was sick and holed up in my cabin.
Whenever there are a lot of people wildlife watching on the outer decks, a crew member always seems to turn up with cocktails or spiked warm beverages. What seemed like the entire housekeeping team showed up to the cruise’s dance party one evening and unabashedly boogied down to get guests on the dance floor.
The expedition team members are always happy to answer questions, take your photo or lend a helping hand, and their lectures are always funny and engaging, even if the topic is dry. I was also impressed at the way they set expectations and rules for the guests in a lighthearted, digestible way without getting preachy or patronizing.
The crew absolutely set the tone for a friendly onboard ambience and it makes the long trip that much more enjoyable.
What I didn’t love about Viking Polaris Lack of announcements
I’ve been on enough high-end cruises to know that the nicer ships don’t like to pipe announcements into your cabin. However, I’d love a bit more communication from the bridge on Viking Polaris.
We missed the captain’s one daily announcement almost every evening because we were inside our room and couldn’t hear it. It’s only when one of us would say, “Is someone talking in the hallway? Oh, wait, it’s the captain!” that we would make a mad dash across the room to open the door to catch the last 15 seconds of whatever he was saying about the weather and the sail ahead.
I’d love a bell or some kind of alert to open our door, even if the announcement itself isn’t piped into the room.
I was also surprised to note that Viking crew members almost never make the “whales off the starboard bow” announcements to alert passengers to wildlife viewing opportunities. I was chagrined when I learned that I had missed some active whales because I was attending an indoor briefing and had no idea that anything interesting was happening out of doors.
Schedule feature in the app
I love a good cruise ship app; it makes navigating a ship and the daily schedule so easy. Viking’s app has many useful features, including your ship’s deck plans, the daily activity schedule, the ability to make reservations and even a photo download section.
However, I heard the same complaint over and over about one aspect of the app: There is no schedule view that allows you to superimpose your reservations (spa, dinner, landings, boat rides) with the onboard activities.
That might not seem like a big deal, but expedition cruises are surprisingly busy. On any day, I might have scheduled a landing and a kayaking tour, but don’t want to miss the science lecture back on the ship. I was constantly flipping back and forth between the two separate schedules, trying to time my bookings correctly.
Other cruise line apps have a “favorite” feature, where you can select the onboard activities you don’t want to miss and add them to a personal calendar that also contains your bookings and reservations. I’d love to see Viking add this as a feature to its app.
Viking Polaris cabins and suites Deluxe Balcony Cabin on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
On Viking Polaris, you’ll either stay in a balcony cabin or a suite. Regular and deluxe balcony cabins are essentially identical, except that the deluxe version is on decks 3 and 4 and comes with additional priority reservations, while the regular version is on the lower Deck 2.
Lower-category suites (junior suites and penthouses) are also on Deck 4, while the top-tier suites, Explorer Suites and the one Owner’s Suite, are on Deck 6.
The ship only has two Americans with Disabilities Act-compliant/wheelchair-accessible cabins; both are junior suites on Deck 4.
If you’re accustomed to ocean cruising, you’ll notice that the balconies on Viking Polaris are not your standard verandah external to the ship. Instead, they are a style employed by many river ships (and some new Royal Caribbean, Celebrity Cruises and Atlas Ocean Voyages ships), where the entire external wall of your cabin is made up of two glass window panes. With the touch of a button, the top pane slides down (like a car window) and your room becomes the balcony, with fresh air wafting in. You can even lean on the lip of the bottom pane of glass, or rest your coffee cup on it, as if it were a balcony railing.
Blackout shades can also come down at the touch of a button, but if you just need to block the sun a little, a gauzy curtain can be drawn across manually.
This style of room works well in cold polar regions where you are unlikely to sit out on a balcony for long, but do want to bring in fresh air from time to time or take a photo without a window in the way.
I was a big fan of our 215-square-foot Deluxe Balcony cabin because it felt cozy without being cramped. In Viking style, its design has Scandinavian influences with blond woods, fairly minimalist furnishings and a homey (rather than hotel-like) feel.
My favorite aspect of the cabin was the small L-shaped leather couch, tucked into a corner behind the shelving unit that separates the sleeping area from the sitting/desk area. Instead of feeling like the sitting area is smaller than the ones found on other ships, it becomes an inviting nook where you can curl up with a book while admiring the view. The coffee table comes in handy when you order room service.
The desk/vanity across from it looks like a simple tabletop but has two secrets. One is, the top lifts to reveal a storage area for jewelry and other small items, and two is that its X-shaped legs are useful for removing stuck-on expedition boots (move the chair so you can stick your foot through the top of the X and use it as leverage to pull the tight boot off).
The sitting area is smaller than you might expect because more space is smartly devoted to the dressing area on the other side of your bed. Here, you’ll find an L-shaped wardrobe with two hanging racks, two large drawers, two small drawers, a top shelf, two small shelves, a cubby for shoes and the safe. A hair dryer, bathrobes and slippers are provided for your onboard use.
The two sides of the closet open from the middle and can be tricky to pull open. One cruiser reported draping hand towels over the top to keep the doors slightly ajar to make them easier to open with her arthritic fingers.
The wardrobe is spacious, but my travel companion and I brought so much extra gear for our two-week Antarctica cruise (more medicine than I usually bring, long underwear and thick wool socks, etc.) that we maxed out the drawer space in the cabin and would have been happy with an additional drawer or two. For example, I kept all my warm-weather accessories (hats, gloves, goggles, etc.) in a bag on the closet floor because I didn’t have a drawer to store them.
Next to the wardrobe is a brilliant addition on Viking’s part — a drying closet. Cruisers on Viking Polaris keep all of their Viking-provided outdoor gear (boots, waterproof pants, two-layer jackets) in their cabins. If they, or other items, get wet on outings, you hang them up in the drying closet and push a button to turn on the heat, and they dry out before your next adventure ashore.
Drying closet on Viking Polaris. ERICA SILVERSTEIN/THE POINTS GUY
Pro tip: Check the drying closet regularly to make sure the heating element is still on. It does turn off eventually, and you’ll need to hit the button again if your drenched belongings aren’t dry yet.
Other nice touches in the cabin include a carafe of water, a minifridge with complimentary soft drinks refilled daily, a Nespresso coffee machine, a corkscrew, small snacks (bags of nuts and milk chocolate), two pairs of binoculars for use during the cruise and a few books themed to polar exploration. The room’s phone is on the desk, as are Quiet Vox headsets for use on tours (these aren’t used much in Antarctica).
The twin beds can be pushed together into a king, and the woolen throw blankets at the ends are a nice touch, especially if you want to snuggle on the couch with the window open. The movable nightstands each have one drawer and an outlet with a 110-volt, 220-volt, USB and USB-C outlet, as well as a wireless charging station. Each side of the bed has a reading light and a bedside light on the leather headboard.
The 55-inch interactive TV is hung on the wall opposite the bed. It has live TV channels, as well as free on-demand movies, a Viking channel to watch lectures and briefings you missed, and information about your cruise, personal schedule and onboard account. You can also make dinner, spa and shore excursion reservations via the TV.
I would have loved a couple of metal hooks on the wall, but you can bring your own because the textured walls are magnetic (but not the wood veneers outside the bathroom).
The bathroom is lovely, both for the spacious shower with a long ledge for storing toiletries or propping up a foot when shaving and for its heated floors (good for warming your toes and also for drying wet gloves). The glass shelves are small, but two generous drawers and shelf space below should accommodate all your toiletries.
Viking provides its own Freya brand of shampoo, conditioner, body wash, hand cream and body lotion in large 2.7-ounce bottles, as well as 30 SPF sunscreen, two sun-protection lip balms, shower caps, vanity kits and bar soap. In the bathroom, you’ll also find a shaver outlet, tissue box, cups and a toothbrush holder.
Related: Viking cruise cabins and suites: A guide to everything you want to know
Viking Polaris restaurants and bars