Few tourists visit the tiny fishing and farming village of Goudouras in the far Southeast of the island. A winding ribbon of road cut between the mountainside and the sea connects the remote
community with the more famous Ierapetra and Agios Nikolaos to the West. On Crete are still places of unspoiled beauty, where the people still cling to the old ways and legendary Cretan
hospitality still exists. This part of Crete is “the middle of nowhere” for some. But it’s the middle of Eden if you seek harmony, peace, and the extraordinary.
The math genius and wise philosopher Blaise Pascal is often cited concerning “the road not taken.” His feelings, noted below, could have been written about the road to a village like Goudouras and the people, places, things, and feelings along the way.
“No one is discontented at not being a king except a discrowned king … unhappiness almost invariably indicates the existence of a road not taken, a talent undeveloped, a self not recognized.”
Find “It” in the Middle of Nowhere
Now, let us pretend that I have enthralled you with this idea of discovery in one of Crete Island’s most remote places. Would you expect me to suggest a hotel or Airbnb to stay at? How about
the best tavernas nearby? Should I list one or two? And attractions not far from the ancient hamlet – what if there were amazing things to see and do? I wrote this report to accomplish allthat, just for you. No one paid me. I am just a retired journalist who gives travel advice. Anyway, this is beside the point. Now that the reader is ready to embark on a journey of adventure and self-discovery let’s just go.
Where would I stay if given the choice? That’s easy. A bit over halfway down the seaside road from the harbor of Makry Gialos to Cape Goudouras, Villa Atalandia is an exclusive seafront
villa with an idyllic spirit imbued into its foundations. First, and perhaps foremost, its closest neighbors are an old hillside chapel, the azure Libyan Sea, and sunrises over not-too-distant
Koufonisi Island. Luxurious, splendid, quiet and safe, a place to reflect and rejoice about life, this Crete villa has everything anyone could want – and something beyond typical desire.
This remarkable private estate overlooking the eternal was designed by its passionate owner with the help of brilliant architects and engineers. Hinda Haspeslagh-Boeckx’s vision started with a piece of land jutting out over the sea. Her ideas of paradise began when she saw the sun rise over the mountains and the sea, literally in the middle of nowhere. With two gourmet kitchens, lush gardens, terraces and balconies, and views of the sea and nature from every room, the villa has room for 14 guests and private parking behind secure gates right off the cliffside road. The images provided do not do the place justice. The villa has a main pool with five privacy pools, a gym, attendant’s quarters or nursery, a covered outdoor BBQ, and much more. This practical and glamorous house is where a famous writer or movie star would stay for inspiration.
Adventures to Remember
Well, now you are absorbing the awesome vibes of a place created from a dream. Where would you like to explore? Are you in tune with the ancients? Or do you want to be the last person(s) on Earth bathing in aquamarine waters fed by an underground spring? Pay a local captain to take you to Koufonisi Island offshore of the Cape of Goudouras. Over twenty fabulous, untouched beaches lay waiting for you there. And only a few know the Island’s most fascinating secrets. It was a place where the ancient world’s most valuable commodity was produced by the Minoans (Keftiu). Tyrian Purple, from the murex shells cultivated here, was worth its weight in silver. Only empires' rulers could afford the Murex snail’s profound, unique colors. It’s interesting that Wikipedia has not yet discovered that it was the Keftiu who first produced this royal dye centuries before the Phoenicians even existed.
The terraces and pool of Villa Atalandia offer carefree quality time under the Cretan sun for sunning and siesta. Just below the villa, Kalami Beach is always deserted. The beach provides cool waters fed by a freshwater spring. Just a few meters farther Eastward, Atherina Beach is invisible to passersby. It’s also one of the most beautiful secret coves on Crete. Swimming the sparkling aquamarine waters that kiss this pebbly beach is an experience no one could forget. This area of Crete is dotted with dozens of secret coves, some of which are only reachable by boat.
The rugged area surrounding Goudouras is an otherworldly place with countless inaccessible gorges, caves, and archaeological discoveries yet to be unearthed. For the adventurous hiking enthusiast, Pervolakia Gorge (see AllTrails) is an imposing and wild place to trek. The 1.5 to 2-hour hike of the 4km gorge takes you from the picturesque village of Pervolakia down to the Libyan Sea. Another interesting point of interest is the Spilia Drakou (Dragon's Cave), about 500 meters above the beautiful golden sandy Ammoudi beaches. Legend has it that King Minos’s wife and her handmaidens swam.
The list of experiences in this part of Crete is endless, like the wind that blows in from Africa. There’s Kapsa Monastery (1552), Agios Georgios Samakidis (1471) between Analipsis and Pefki, and a dozen other stunning religious sites. Farther East, the Cave of Alogara is one of many places to gather spiritual energy and get a sense of wonder. Located on the lonely road to deserted Livari Beach, the cave was a sanctuary for the Minoans (Keftiu), given the discoveries of French archaeologist Paul Faure and others. These are just a few of the countless points of interest for visitors and locals alike.
Gastronomy Ideas
For first-time visitors to the region, there are hundreds of such places on Crete and dozens of just a short drive or hike from Villa Atalandia. Rather than list too many here, let me suggest you
discover the best dining experiences in the area. First and foremost, there’s Vira Potzi (Βίρα Πότζι) right on the harbor in Ierapetra. It’s about 40 minutes from your villa, but it’s absolutely one of the finest gastronomical experiences in Crete or Greece. My friend Giorgos does not pay me to recommend his and his brother’s restaurant. I am paid each time they uphold their reputation. Maintaining a 5-star rating on Tripadvisor for over 700 reviews upholds my assertions here. Try the red mullet caught in the shoals offshore. My wife will drive almost 2 hours just for this dish, George suggested the last time we dined there.
For those staying at Villa Atalandia or elsewhere in the Goudouras area, there’s a small supermarket in the village and larger, better-stocked grocery stores just minutes away in Makry Gialos. Since the villa is well situated for cooking and dining, most guests will create their own culinary bliss or engage a local chef to prepare some or all of the meals. For dining out nearer than Ierapetra, the excellent taverna Seretis serves local traditional food right in front of Goudouras Beach. The view from this spot in the center of the village is fantastic, the food is fresh and tasty, and the prices are very reasonable, even by Crete standards. We have not dined there yet, but other Google Local Guides have raved about the taverna.
A short drive (15 min) from Villa Atalandia in Makry Galos, there’s a score of traditional Cretan tavernas to choose from. Gusto and Restaurant Petra Bay are two of the best, both offering marvelous views, great seafood, and other local Cretan favorites.
In a Nutshell
Blaise Pascal’s quote echoes here, especially the part about “a self unrecognized,” because the busy world and our busy lives tear away the fabric of our authentic spirit. This is why people talk about getting away. One definition of vacation is “the action of leaving something one previously occupied.” Ideally, a person takes time off and away, returning home with a new purpose, ideas, and energy not available in the bubble of their rat-race life. My recommendation for many people I see landing on Crete Island is to strike out to get lost, lost in the middle of nowhere, in the middle ofnowhere, in the middle of paradise.
The article Visit south Crete to find your unrecognized self feature image suggestion – Atalandia nowhere first appeared in TravelDailyNews International.